AGearHead4Life's video: 5 3 87 Chevy Truck Update - 16 August 2014 - R10 C10 Square Body

Large update video on my 5.3/4l80e swapped 1987 Chevrolet truck R10. I talk about the new tires, suspension plans and recent events. Its about ready for LS Fest. The truck is running great. More driving videos to come soon. ================================ UPDATE: Driving video has been posted. Lots of wide open throttle pulls here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwovZ... ================================ ENGINE SPECS: 5.3L LSx (165k Miles) 4.8 Flat Top Pistons (Used) (10.6:1 CR) - reused 5.3 rings Home Ported 862 Cast Heads LS1 2" Intake Valves (Used) TSP 220r Cam - 220/220 581/581 112lsa (Used) PAC 1218 .600" Lift Valve Springs (New) Schoenfelds LSx Truck Swap Long Tube Headers with Tech Line Coating (New) ---------------------------------- Last Truck update video: http://youtu.be/2MiYI8VHMsY -------------------------------- Test Drive video after 5.3 swap: http://youtu.be/P68ABfgPl0s 5.3 Truck Swap video time-lapse: http://youtu.be/ikBkMHM03Z8 -------------------------------------------------------- MORE TALK ON THE COOLANT SYSTEM AND HEATER CONTROL VAVLE: I took into consideration the idea of the heater core helping to cool the motor as it is pretty much a mini-radiator, but with no air flow over the heater core, I doubted that it'd be enough to make it drop 10* by just opening the valve. My radiator is massive and the dual Lincoln Continental electric fans flow plenty. I could get out and open the valve, then put a load on the engine by running up a hill and see an obvious difference in temps. Then close the valve and do the same. Then open the valve and do the same. Over and over and it would change an average of 13* immediately. As if the flow of the return heater core hose flowing over the thermostat, as it does, opens the thermostat up to allow the motor to cool. I believe this is why the factory heater hose has a "T" in it that runs to the radiator. To allow flow over the thermostat and open it. I believe that when I open the heater control valve it allows the water to flow over the thermostat, opening it. If you look in the water pump, the two heater ports are seperated. I guess I could go to plugs and "U" hose method and test the two ideas that way. I think the plug method will work if you drill a bypass hole inside the water pump to allow coolant flow between the ports and to the thermostat. Its just hard for me to believe that water flow through the heater core would drop it that much. Especially without any air flow over it. With the massive aftermarket radiator that I have and electric fans running, i don't see how it needed more cooling capacity either. ================================= SHIRT ORDERING DETAILS: Need a good quality wrench'n shirt? Get your official AGearHead4Life T-shirt here. Durable, thick and wrench time ready, 50/50 cotton/poly, no cheapo shirt. Ready for all your back crawling on gravel drive way trans swapping adventures. S - XL = $18 Shipped 2XL - 5XL = $20 Shipped Other sizes available from youth medium up to 6XL and "tall" versions. Message below for price. Summer time Grey Shirts and cold weather Black Shirts available. Send PayPal to: agearhead4life1@gmail.com Please leave your address, size and color of shirt you're ordering in the "notes" section of the payment. If your not familiar with PayPal use, I can send you a payment request through PayPal with your email address. Thank you for supporting AGearHead4Life! Keep on Wrench'n! ================================= Check out my other videos like this on my channel by clicking the link below: http://www.youtube.com/user/AGearHead...