Sebastiaan Mollema's video: Timber Frame Cladding DIY Garage Extension

Hi Everybody welcome back. This episode I am building the timber and putting the on the garage . I will be building on the concrete foundation from the previous video. Check the right corner of the screen if you haven’t seen that. The first thing me and my buddy did was preparing the lumber to the right dimensions and making a hole here and there for bolt connections. Lets have a look on the design. So previously the dimensions on the concrete were explained. Now we will start on the parts above it. The timber will stand on an stem wall, to keep it high and away from the moisture. The walls are 100 mm or 4” thick boards. The studs are at 400mm or 16” on center. The wooden cladding has an air gap of 30mm, 1 1/8”. And on the inside there is a sheet of ½ “ os band plasterboards. The roof constructions consist of 70x150 mm or 3 by 6” joists. And on the joists there is a layer of 20mm or ¾” floor boards. In between the studs and joists glasswool insulation is installed. Then we assembled the timbers into the wall frames. We paid attention that they butted up nicely tot he plates so they were flush. This outside surface wasn’t perfectly flat. We used two 80mm or 3 ¼ “screws per stud. On top of the first wall we assembled the second smaller wall. And we stapled DPC plastic tot he wood which was in contact with other materials. With some pursuading we made the bottom plates fit of the the connection bolts in the concrete. They were predrilled but one hole needed some more room. Then the walls were stiched together with screws and the second row of topplates. After this we put on the breathing membrame. Here in NL outside is usually colder and wetter than the inside so you want to let air travel towards outside the walls and keep the moisture outside. Then we closed the top with a tarp fort he rain. The day after I could attach the ventilation timbers onto the membrame and studs. This is pressure treated pine because this is the outside. First I attach a board the the existing roof construction. This doubles the wood in this spot. Then I attached the joist brackets to this new board. On the other end the joists will rest on the topplate of the wall. The joists will be connected together with a rimjoist. This prevents them from tipping on that side. The construction is in an L shape so the longer joists will rest on an existing roof. Under the joists there a layer of DPC is installed again. Every other joist is extra anchored with a hurricane bracket. And every single one has a corner bracket. This is for good maesure. Then the floor boards could be installed over the joists. This is an extention to an old building and when this was made plywood wasn’t used often for these applications. It is relevant to let the ends of the boards rest on a joist so they won’t be free floating without support. At the ends of the boards I use long staples to attach them to the joists. This saves a bit of time and connect them firmly to the joist. When that was done I put on the roof a breating membrame and over that a sheets of PVC. This is temporary in a later stage the roof material will be installed. By that time the cladding had arrived at my shop. And there I treated the wood with a clear varnish. This is an outside grade of varnish. The wood is a gorgeous shiplap of western red cedar. The smell of this wood is really nice and the looks are really something. When the wood is beign treated I could focus on putting the insulation between the timbers. By this time the wood had the chance to dry. This process goes very quickly. The glasswool is already to the right width so it could directly installed. Then over the insulation a sheet of plastic is installed. A vapor barrier, keeping the warmer air inside. When wearing longsleeves and a respirator the glasswool is not Finally I could start with the nicest job of the cladding. On the bottom of the ventilation timbers a grid or profile is installed to keep bugs and splashing water out. Then I could attach the first board. I use a small pin nail to keep it in position and then use the level to align it. Above each layer of wood a small expansion gap is needed because the wood will expand and contract because of the moisture. The ends of the boards were treaded with the varnish as well because of moisture. I permanently attached the the boards with a single screw in the stud, on every other stud. The screws are 304 stainless screws. And I predrilled them when installing. If you like this video hit the like button and consider subscribing! ♫Music By♫ ELPHNT https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjEK32QlJe0Dy4nXxelXrww Webshop: www.seamm.nl My other Social Channels Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sebastiaanm... Instructables https://www.instructables.com/member/Sebastiaan%20Mollema/